Tuesday, December 9, 2008

who's the new guy?

Hello,

Thanks to Nick and Brie for the invite.

I'm Matt, and I have been cooking professionally for about 5 years now. Nick and I have nerded it up with food ever since we met many years ago, he was just smart enough not to get into the food industry! Truth is I love my line of work, and I love thinking, talking, and learning about food, so its great to have a new outlet like this blog. Plus i'm always curious what people with normal lives outside of professional kitchens eat on a daily basis.

I've been super inspired lately and cooking my ass off at home and at the restaurant where i work, so i have alot of meals i'd love to share and discuss on here, but first its food-related xmas wishlist time:


Wine glasses - as much as i want fancy riedel glasses, i just need some decent, large and thin red wine glasses. anybody know of a good source?

Urban Italian by Andrew Carmellini. This book looks awesome. He was the chef at Cafe Boulud for some time, then opened A Voce, an upscale Italian restaurant in manhattan. Now hes unemployed, hoping to open another place in NYC soon. In the meantime, him and his wife wrote this book, about cooking simple Italian food in a tiny new york apartment. Ive been on a serious italian food kick lately so all of these recipes, especially the short ribs braciole, make me super hungry. I guess theres some pretty unreal kitchen stories too which is probably the real reason why i want this.

Balsamico. I mean like really old, really small bottle, really concentrated. I've never had a really exceptional one, save for the Villa Manadori, which is great. I've been cooking alot with saba lately, which i love, but i want that special bottle of the good stuff.


Razor Clams. I have never cooked with these, and can never seem to find them in markets. I think we can get them through city fish at the restaurant where i work, but i really want a shellfishing license so i can go out and get my own, now that i live so close to the shore. One of my favorite things to eat in NYC is the dish of razor clams at Casa Mono, Mario Batali's spanish tapas restaurant near Union Square. They are thrown, split and with the shell still attached, onto a hot flat top (they call it a plancha in spain) until they carmelize and firm up nicely, meanwhile the cook mixes a vinaigrette in a bowl, just lemon juice, tons of garlic, spanish olive oil, chopped parsley, and salt and pepper. The clams are just piled on a plate and the vinaigrette is poured over. Extremely simple, delicious and fun to eat.


Iberico Ham. Speaking of Spain, if anybody has ever had this type of ham, they'll understand why i want this so bad. The product of a very special breed of pig, raised in a very special way in the Extremadurra region of Spain, this dry cured ham is some of the best in the world. The best hams, called Bellota, are taken from black footed pigs who graze solely on acorns, their flesh and fat become perfumed by that nuttiness. It only became legal to sell in the United States last year or earlier this year i believe. Amazing flavor and texture, too bad its so goddamn expensive. Anyone want to go in on a whole ham?

Chitarra. A Chittara is an old fashioned device used for cutting pasta. It looks like a board with a bunch of guitar strings attached. The dough is rolled over the surface of the wires and is cut into the desired shape, usually spaghetti.












How about y'all?

5 comments:

H said...

Ooh, boy I'm so excited to have a professional among us! My food-related xmas wishlist is very short: I want a kitchen. I'm studying abroad in Buenos Aires right now and when I come back to New York in January I have one more semester of college, which means I am probably going to live in a kitchenless, bathroomless DORM ROOM--blech. Does anyone know of anybody in need of a roommate in Manhattan or Brooklyn? I'd kill for a kitchen.

As for wine glasses--Matt, does any aspect besides the shape of the glass affect the wine?

Also, I'm glad to hear of yet another Mario Batali rec--the man has so many restaurants! I was just telling Van--and Clara--they should check out Po, which he technically isn't attached to anymore, but started. It's fantastic, and affordable. Those razor clams sound tantalizing.

Alan said...

speaking of plancha...

blogspot.evoamerica.com

Anonymous said...

Matt, welcome - great to have you! I would love to hear about what you've been cooking - at home especially - since I have a reverse fascination with what professional cooks make and eat on their off time. Re: your wish list. For wine glasses, how about ikea? or crate & barrel used to have decent ones. short ribs braciole, yummmm... i'll have to check out his cookbook. i've never had razor clams, but the sound awesome! i hear you are a fan of the calamari at abate - which i've also never had. i say we organize a tasting trip. :)

Anonymous said...

p.s. re: the iberico ham. i would love to cure my own meats - any interest? anyone done it? ideas?

mattwick said...

brie,

i got some glasses today at ikea (just an excuse to get calamari really, we should definitely go. so crispy.), along with little jars for marinated olives that i am giving as gifts this year. they are pretty decent for 1.99 a piece.
score!
as far as curing meats, ill start posting about what we have going on at the restauarnt. this is our second year dry curing things in the wine room and its working out very nicely. last year we successfully cured prosciutto style hams, breasola, sweet and hot coppa, different flavors of soppressatta, guanciale, pancetta, and something i started as our first experiment (i did it in my garage in the winter) which is the cured pork tenderloin from jacques pepin's latest book. we've kind of modified the recipe, and change the flavoring almost everytime, but its so simple. Just a simple dry cure w/ curing salt overnight, rinse, dry, rub with red or white wine, cognac or whatever you feel like and then roll in a bunch of black pepper, crushed fennel seed, crushed chili, or some nice dried herbs. wrap in cheesecloth and hang in a cool ventilated place for about 2 to 3 weeks. delicious.
i would recommend Charcuterie by brian polcyn and michael rhulman, as well as Cooking by Hand, by paul bertolli. really good resources on dry curing at home. the hardest part is scoring the different curing salts, starter culture, and dextrose.